Kosher Guide to Rome

Italy is in the Schengen Area, so visitors from outside the EU need a valid passport, and the rules for a visa depend on your nationality. Carry photo ID in Rome as well: the synagogues ask every visitor for an identity document at the security check.

From Fiumicino, the Leonardo Express train runs non-stop to Termini station for €14, and from Termini a bus, tram or taxi reaches the Ghetto. Taxis from Fiumicino to the city centre inside the Aurelian Walls, which includes the Ghetto, charge a fixed fare of €55, and from Ciampino €40.

No. The Ghetto and the historic centre are best explored on foot, and buses, trams and the metro cover the rest of the city. Much of the centre is a restricted traffic zone closed to non-resident cars, and parking is scarce.

Most kosher restaurants are on Via del Portico d'Ottavia in the Ghetto: Ba'Ghetto, BellaCarne, BellaCarne Street Food and Renato al Ghetto serve meat, while Ba'Ghetto Milky, Ba'Ghetto Bistrot, Casalino Osteria, Yotvata and Bona Pizza are dairy. Outside the Ghetto there are Little Tripoli and Flour Farina e Cucina near Piazza Bologna, Dolce Kosher and C'è Pasta e Pizza in Monteverde, and four branches of the Fonzie burger chain.

The Rabbinate of Rome, part of the Jewish Community of Rome, supervises the restaurants, bakeries and butchers in this guide and publishes their list. Parve products sold as kosher must be packed and sealed with the Rabbinate's stamp, and many places are also Chalav Yisrael or Pat Yisrael.

Kosher Delight has four shops selling meat and groceries, in the Ghetto, near Piazza Bologna and two in Marconi. Other kosher butchers include Pascarella Carni Kosher and Bet Kosher's grocery near Trastevere, Centro Kasher in Monteverde, Babani Ben David and Da Zakino near Piazza Bologna, and Mondo Carni Kosher in Marconi.

No. The Jewish Community of Rome states that there is no eruv in Rome, so carrying outdoors on Shabbat is not possible. Belts for carrying keys on Shabbat are available at the synagogue.

Visitors who are not members of the Jewish Community of Rome must register online by 2:00 PM on Friday to attend Shabbat services, and must bring photo ID; men need long trousers and closed shoes. Most kosher restaurants close by mid-afternoon on Friday and reopen after Shabbat on Saturday evening, so plan meals in advance.

Ba'Ghetto, BellaCarne and Renato al Ghetto serve Friday-night dinner, and Ba'Ghetto and Renato also Shabbat lunch, by advance online booking and prepayment. BellaCarne Street Food sells take-away Shabbat Kits collected on Friday, Shabbat Box Rome from Beis Chabad Jewish Ghetto sells meals ordered by Wednesday evening, and Chabad Piazza Bologna arranges free meals with local families.

Choose a hotel within walking distance of the synagogue you plan to attend, since there is no eruv. Hotels in the Ghetto and the historic centre around it are closest to the Great Synagogue and the kosher restaurants, while Piazza Bologna and Monteverde suit visitors davening at the synagogues there.

Yes. The Mikve Eliahu Fadlun is on Via Famiano Nardini near Piazza Bologna, run with Chabad Piazza Bologna, and visits are by appointment. The Jewish Community of Rome and Chabad list further mikvaot in the city.

Kosher restaurants and shops are closed from Friday afternoon until Shabbat ends on Saturday evening, apart from prepaid Shabbat meals booked ahead. The Great Synagogue holds Shabbat morning services at 8:30 AM, and the Spanish Temple in the same building at 8:00 AM.

All of Rome's synagogues are Orthodox. The Great Synagogue (Tempio Maggiore, Italian rite) and the Spanish Temple (Sephardic rite) share one building at the Ghetto; other synagogues are near Termini, around Piazza Bologna, in Monteverde, Marconi and Parioli. Beis Chabad Jewish Ghetto has a daily Shacharit at 9:00 AM, and Chabad Rome Center a weekday Mincha near the Spanish Steps.

Chabad runs Beis Chabad Jewish Ghetto in the Ghetto, Chabad Rome Center on Via dei Greci near the Spanish Steps, Chabad Piazza Bologna, and Chabad of Monteverde, which leads the synagogue on Via Pianese.

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for walking the city. July and August are hot and crowded, and the Jewish holidays bring many visitors to the Ghetto, so book Shabbat and holiday meals early.